Thursday, October 24, 2013

wheat beer around 1600


Here is one of the oldest printed books on beer and brewing I got hold of.
I am citing a digital copy of a later edition from 1614 but the original publication date seems to be 1575.
Since he died around 1580 the later editions seem to cover the state of the late 16. century however.

Author: Knaust, Heinrich (* 1521?  † 1580?)
Publication: Erfurt, 1614
Title:
Fünff Bücher/ Von der Göttlichen und Edlenn Gabe der
Philosophischen/ hochthewren und wunderbaren Kunst/
Bier zu brawen : Auch von Namen der vornemesten
Biere/ in gantz Teutschlanden/ und von deren Naturen/
Temperamenten, Qualiteten, Art und Eigenschafft/ Gesundheit
und Ungesundheit/ Sie seynd Weitzen/ oder Gersten/ weisse/
oder rothe Biere/ gewürtzt oder ungewürtzt
Itzo aber aufs newe übersehen / und in viel Wege/ uber vorige Edition gemehret und gebessert Durch
herrn Heinricum Knaustium, beyder Rechten Doctorem
Gegruckt zu Erfurdt durch Nickolaus Schmuck/ Im Jahr 1614
(Five Books about the godly and classy talent, the philosophical,
precious, and miraculous art of brewing beer: Also about the names
of the most distinguished beer in whole german lands, about their natures,
temperaments, qualities, manner and features, healthfulness and unhealthfulness, be they wheat or barley, white or red beers, spiced or not spiced.)

He generally distinguishes white and red beer (much like white and red wine) meaning wheat-beer and barley-beer.
In other sources one reads the name "Weissbier" (white beer) for wheat beer or "Hefeweizen" (yeasty wheat beer) that is most commonly used in the present time would have been used in the old times just for all pale beers.
I think there is some truth in this, but in the early texts I find many statements indicating that any pale beers were made with Wheat in general. There hat to be some reason in the malting and kilning processes. The spreading of air dried malt ("Luftmalz") may change this later on.

He talks about wheat beers:
  • Hamburger Bier (Königin der Weißbiere, Queen of the white beers)
  • Das Lübische Bier (called Israel, from Lübeck)
  • Bremer Bier
  • Stader Bier (from Stade 40km from Hamburg)
  • Buxtehuder Bier
  • Lüneburger Bier
  • Englisch Bier (english beer) "wird in den Niederlanden/ Preußen/ Dennemarck und Schweden/ viel getruncken/ und ist ein gut wohlschmeckend Weiß Bier" (they drink it in the Netherlands, Prussia, Denmark and Sweden. It's a good well tasting white beer)
  • Braunschweigisch Bier (from Braunschweig)
  • Magdeburgisch Bier (from Magdeburg)
  • Goslerisch Bier/ Gose genandt (beer from Goslar, called Gose) "viel Brawer in andern Städten/ befleissen sich/ diß Bier nach zu brawen/ wie andere das hamburger Bier/ aber es fehlet doch [...]" (many brewers in other towns are assiduous to copy that beer like with the beer from Hamburg but it is lacking)
  • Quedelburgische Gose (Gose from Quedlinburg)
  • Halberstetische Gose (Gose from Halberstadt)
  • Blanckenburger Gose
  • Ascherschlebische Gose (Gose from Aschersleben)
  • Werningerodische Gose  (Gose from Werningerode)
  • Osterwickische Gose  (Gose from Osterwieck)
  • Dernburger Weiß Bier (beer from Bernburg)
  • Broihane/ das hannoverische Bier ("Broihane" the beer from Hannover (also called Broyhan, Broihahn ...)) "gut köstlich Bier von Weizen [...] füsses Geschmacks, starcker Subsatanz und gutes nutriments" (good and well tasting beer made from wheat with sweet taste, strong substance and well nourishing)
  • Hildesheimer Broihane
  • Göttinger Broihane "Diese Stadt Göttingen/ sol auch neben dem rothen/ ein Weizen Bier brawen/ welches sie auch Broihane nennen" (the town of Göttingen brews besides the red beer also a wheat beer wich they also call broihan)
  • Boitzenburger Bier (beer from Boizenburg/Elbe)
  • Polnisch Biere (different wheat beers from Poland)
  • Pragisch Bier (beer from Praque, bohemia) In Prag in Behmen/ sollen sie auch ein gar gut Weizen oder Weiß Bier brauwen/ daß mir auß der massen sehr gelobet wird/ und habe dieses löblichen Biers umb der hochberühmpten Vniversitet willen/ zu Prag/ in Behmen/ nicht schweigen sollen/ und habe sein gern dieses Orts/ unter den weissen Bieren meldung gethan/ denn es hieher/ wie auch das Englische Bier/ gehörig/ dieweil Behmen und Deutschland gar nahend aneinander stossen/ unnd genachbart sein/ daß alle Tage Deutsche in Behmen/ und Behmen in Deutschland sein/ ab und zu ziehen. (In Praque in Bohemia they are said to also brew a fairly good wheat or white beer, that is very well recommended and because of the famous university of Praque I shall not keep silence about this commendable beer, so i am pleased to report on it at this place, because it blongs here like the english beer because Bohemia and Germany closely collide and are neighboring so that all day Germans are in Bohemia and Bohemians are in Germany, coming and going.) 
  • Colbergisch Bier (beer from Kołobrzeg, west Pomerania)
  • Breßlawisch Bier (beer from Wrocław, western Poland)
  • Sittawisch Bier (beer from Zittau)
  • Kadeusch Bier (beer from Kadaň, Ústí nad Labem Region of the Czech Republic)
In all those town they made beer with wheat, in some they made also barley beer.
Talking about Broihan and Gose he states that the imitaions differ from the originals but are not bad in general and can be called Gose or Broyhan because they are made in the same manner.

Interestingly he does not mention bavarian wheat beer but bohemian. It is said that the bavarians got their wheat beer from bohemia but was this a bohemian invention or did they get it from northern Germany via Poland?
He also does not mention a wheat beer from Berlin or berliner Weisse, only a barley beer is mentioned.

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